We first truly realized that things would be really different in India vs. Thailand was when we headed to check in for our flight to Calcutta a couple of weeks ago. There was a bit of a mob scene in front of the Jet Airways counter with no clearly discernible queuing system. None of the congregants were female and most stared at us openly as we approached. Most disconcerting was the overpowering wave of body odor that crashed over us as we approached.
What's a little scary is that while lineups remain chaotic and the locals we meet are mostly men who stare/glare at us very directly, the body odor is not noticeable. Does this mean people smell better or does it mean that we are used to it because we now smell like that?
When we arrived in Calcutta the temperature was in the mid-30s. We were ok with that. Bangkok was about that temperature. When we went to Darjeeling, the temperatures were in the teens. It was a welcome change. When we got to Varanasi we were dying in the heat and thought that the time in the mountains must have really softened us up. We didn't feel so bad when we realized that the temperatures were in the 40's. Sightseeing holds little appeal when it is so hot that you don't even want to move because moving means that hot air will move across the surface of your skin.
I have been surprised at how low the water levels are in the rivers. Little creeks flow through vast dry river plains. I guess the heat will do that. The river in Varanasi is reputed to be one of the dirtiest in the world. Sewage, industrial waste, and cremated remains are only a few of the ingredients flavoring the water. Every day thousands bathe in these waters. It was amazing to see kids frolicking like they were at the local Y and their elders gargling the water as they 'freshened' their breath. I was expecting the water to smell bad or look like sludge but I was surprised that the water actually looked somewhat inviting.
We have now visited the sights and cities that we really wanted to see in India. We have admired the Himalayas and drank tea in Darjeeling, watched an open air cremation by the river in Varanasi, and admired the beauty of the Taj Mahal in Agra. Tonight we start a 33 hour train journey that will take us 2000km South to Bangalore where we will meet up with a missionary who has set up homes for unwanted children.
Sunday, April 27, 2008
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