La Paz

La Paz, Bolivia
What a city, it reminded us more of Central American cities than our previous South American cities. It is quite chilly in the shade, and there are many, many llama wool blankets on our hostel beds. In Central America we rarely had any problems finding accomodations, even in guidebook recommended hostels. South America has been a bit different. Upon arrival in La Paz we hopped in a cab to our hostel of choice only to find it full...and the next 3 were full as well! Finally we happened upon a fancier looking hotel (in the witch`s district... You wouldn`t know it except for the dried frogs and llama foetuses (Yuck!) for sale in some of the shops.) and found a room much better than any of the hostels would have provided. There were panoramic views of the city, hot hot showers and a good breakfast. We continue to be amazed by how the quality of lodging changes if you`re willing to pay just a couple dollars more.

One morning we took a bus tour of the city in a double decker. The views are great from the top of an open air double decker bus, however the vehicle pollution can be nearly suffocating. A few things we learned:
-It`s the highest capital city in the world at 3600m above sea level.
-The Spaniards only chose the site because it was lower than the surrounding countryside and sheltered from the harsh winds that blow on the altiplano
-From the highest point in the city to the lowest there`s a distance of over a km and a 10 degree celsius average temperature difference.
-The rich live in the lower parts of the city where the air isn`t quite so thin while the poor enjoy the incredible views and colder temperatures.
-Bolivia has had a troubled history. It has fought wars with most of its neighbors and as far as I know failed to win any of them resulting in huge losses of territory.

Another day we visited the coca leaf museum and learned its history. It`s been a part of the native culture here for millenia and forms a significant part of the economy. Some of the coca crop ends up going into the illegal market but the more visible use of the dried leaf is in tea or chewed into a wad. The tea is said to be useful in combatting the effects of altitude sickness while people who work long hard hours chew it to maintain alertness and to eliminate fatigue.